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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.