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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.